For once someone else had done the hard part, and that was working out the measurements and detail needed, so I just had to reproduce them in resin. As it had been broken down into lots of parts, it could be made the same way, meaning there was no particular order to which part was made first.
     I started with the laser emitter. This is quite narrow and knowing how brittle thin tooling resin can be, the main centre was made out of polyurethane resin, and only the edge out of tooling resin. (Poly is cream, tooling is white.)
     The basic shape was turned on the lathe, and the finer detail like the slight angle was done my hand. I hade measurements but it was adjusted by eye mainly. To get the flatson the hexagon, the part was taken from the lathe and mounted in a rotary table, and each side taken off with a milling cutter before the table turned a fixed amount for the next flat. Really very simple with the right tools.
     Next was the main body. This was a rough block of resin milled to a nice rectangle. To make the rough rectangle I find it easiest to make a cardboard box slight over size. Using duct tape, all the sides are taped together then the inside of the box I smeared in beeís wax, which stops the resin penetrating the cardboard and allows for easy removal. Also I place about a quarter of an inch of super sculpy in the bottom to give a slight lip. This is the first part to be clamped in the vice.
     From this position the five sides are machined up, leaving only the once with the lip on in the vice to do. This makes sure the block is a perfect rectangle, and a good base to start work from.
     At this stage it was just what bits to do next. The long side detail pieces were turned in the lathe, and then cut in two with a slitting saw. This makes cutting a precise and neat job, with no wonky edges you would have gotten doing it by hand. Once cut in two, the two grooves were milled off the front of what would be the top ribbed section.
     The round knob bit, which goes on the back of the blaster, was made in tooling resin, but I should have used polyurethane, as the knurling started to show signs of chipping as it went deeper. Lesson learnt there.
     So now we come to start assembling it, so we can see how itís shaping up. To stick it together a two part quick set epoxy glue is used, as this is by far the strongest means, and also the simplest. As you ca see the top ribbed bit has been cut down, and turned round to act as the cross bit which will marry up to the sight once added. To get the long ribbed bit to fit nicely against it, first off it was milled, then sanding by hand just to finish it off.
     Next was the sight. Now a proper pistol sight could have been used, but I didn't have one of those, but again the measurements were there. However a lapse in concentration and I marked the rod of resin out wrongly and made a very nice, but to short scope. To cure this, the sight I had made was cut into sections, then a hole drilled centrally on each bit and a rod inserted into it and glue applied. The gap was then filled in with a very hard filler, and once done lathed down to size. It took far longer than it should have done, but thatís what happens when your mind starts to wonder, thinking of other things while you should be concentrating on the job at hand.
     Now at this point the camera went on its hols again, and so I am lacking a few pictures of the grip section being made. The main grip was made by using self hardening clay, squeezed in my hand to get a rough shape to it. It was then left to harden, and filler added and sanding with a dremel till it looked right.
     The finger guard was a length of clear acrylic sheet, which if heated in an oven, (I have a small electric oven of my own, as using the one in the kitchen is not a good idea as it tends to smell quite a lot when hot, and smoke as well.) Once heated it bends very easily, so have something to hand the correct angle and let it just bend over it and cool down. Once cool it was fitted to the grip section.
     I did actually have a spot of bother making the grip, as I based my design on an old type Walther PPK, but the grip on the biker blaster is only a two finger grip, which took me a while to figure out. I was trying to fit three fingers in the grip, and wondered why it looked odd and was a bit tight. However this does seem a common mistake as there are only a few odd shots of the blaster in use, and most amateur makers of these assume its s normal gun grip and make it too big.
     The next three pictures show the almost finished blaster held together with elastic bands for that all import trial and error part. As you can see I also had to make what would have been the cross hair adjusting knobs, leaving the only bit I didn't make as the scope mounting ring, which was bought from a gun shop. Trying to make this bit by hand would have resulted in loads of work as its shaped at all angles. As it was, it was slightly too narrow so required a bit of filler and sanding, but only a fraction of the work if a entire bit had needed making from scratch.
     I also added a additional ring bit to the back round knob bit, as on one of the biker message boards someone found a rare picture of a rear angled shot, which very clearly showed this part, something that seemed to have been over looked before.
     As with anything made out if this resin, I wanted to make a mould and cast it in something more durable, and black. For that reason I made it in three pieces. The main body, the grip section and the sight. This makes pouring the resin much easer, as without proper injection moulding machinery, casting a complicated shape like this in one go would result in huge air traps, and also very difficult to get out of a mould.
     So onto the finished product, cast in black polyurethane resin. From these pictures you will also see I added what on the original was a transistor plate which was supposed to be the trigger on the side of the grip. Many biker blasters around have a trigger where a trigger normally is, but thatís because people assume something instead of looking at proper pictures. We all know that assumption is the mother of all **** ups, and thatís why you should never assume anything. If in doubt check the pictures or ask around.
     So again the transistor was made from scratch as I couldn't find one in the UK that matched up. You have to bear in mind when the original was made years ago, and now dayís things have changed and gotten a lot smaller. There were several close matches but nothing spot on, so as always when in doubt make it yourself. It saves money and a lot of wasted time looking around. So the button section was turned on the lathe and the base on the milling machine. To finish it off, itís held in place with two proper screws.
     Last off a few more pictures of the finished item from all angles. I prefer casting in coloured resin as to be honest I hate having to paint stuff. Paint equals possible chips, if you drop it, then it needs touching up, which means more work. Some people cast stuff in there natural colour as most resin comes in either white or cream, but if you look around your local craft stores, most of them have around a dozen colouring agents which are just added to the resin and stirred in.
     I always think itís nicer to buy something that can be used straight away, oppose to that having to wait till itís been finished off to use. Perhaps its just me and my impatient nature :)
This was one of those 'Oh!' I think I will have a go at that projects.  Basically on one of the biker message boards a guy posted plans with proper measurements and diagrams on how to make one.  More of the work needed carrying out on a lathe and milling machine so it was right up my street.  So out came the tooling resin once again and work began.
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