The periscope on an R6 is slightly different to the R2 version as the segments are narrower than the R2 so it means it needs redesigning to fit in. As pictures of an R6 are very limited anyway, it means the design was down to me, so I tried to keep it in keeping with the R2 version, just altered the dimensions to fit the smaller segment.
So the building of the periscope was covered in the other R6 parts section, this is it being assembled to extend up and down. I not only wanted it to extend, but rotate to face the front as well.
My plan was to have a single push operation, so a button would be pressed, activating a latching relay. This way you set up a couple of micro switches at the top and bottom to cut power when it gets a certain height, then by another press of the latching relay, it drops back down.
While I had made the periscope, the actual mechanics of it were still being worked on, so a prototype prior to the finished item was made to make sure everything worked as it should, and allowed for any mistake to be corrected in the finished version.
So to build this I needed a 12v motor, which I used one with a 5:1 gearbox on it, then using a toothed belt setup, geared it to drive the periscope mechanism at 3:1. You may ask why not just use a high speed motor and gear it down with the toothed belt, but by using a geared down motor to start with increases the torque at the output shaft, more than using a straight belt drive. With a straight belt drive there is more strain on the motor as is speeds up, than gearing it down first, then up again.
To drive the periscope up and down, I used a threaded rod with bearings to hold it in place for a smooth movement. The prototype had two evenly spaced, but I found a single bearing, then a space then two bearings close together gave a much better wobble free rotation, so that was a correction on the finished item.
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So as you can see here, the periscope tube and motor are joined via a belt drive. The periscope will go in the right-hand side middle segment, so the workings can be mounted behind it so to speak, so they will fit nicely round the outside of the inside of the dome. Luckily an R6 has more internal dome space than the R2, which is good as a lot needs fitting in.
The micro switches are operated via steel pin in the side of the threaded tube, which also acts as a rotating device. Cutting a simple slot in the side of the tube, which goes straight up, then rotates round the side a short way, then up straight again. This gives the motion to extend from the dome, going up straight then when near the top the periscope head will rotate to face the front. The threaded rod which spins to raise and lower the unit fits inside the periscopes central tube so everything is neatly tucked out the way when finished.
Now the prototype is done, and all the little problems worked out I set about building the finished item.
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The first thing you will notice is the grey plastic tube has changed for a fibreglass version. I found out just by chance, PVC tubing expands and contracts depending on temperature, so one day it would go up and down fine, the next it would stick. By making a tube from fibreglass it stays the same size no matter the temperature out. As you can now see all the bits are fixed in place, and I also made some little plastic legs to bolt it down with.
A quick explanation of the bits and what they do. The two pairs of micro switches disconnect the power both positive and negative when the pin on the central lifter pushes on them. The latching relay just changes over the contact which are put in opposite ways so one way it goes up, and the other it comes down.
The latching relay, which is hooked up to a press switch and by default while off sends power to the two bottom switches which is the bringing down action. When the switch is pressed the power is switched to the upper switches, and the lifter rises till the pin presses on the upper two disconnecting power. Another press of the latching relay press switch changes power to the lower switches allowing the riser to drop back down.
If might sound complex, but this way the lift and decent is controlled via one single switch, and no other speed controllers or anything is needed. One press for up and another press of the same switch to come down. This means if using servos one servo can operate two items.
At the mo I am still making the segment shaped top section which will be in fibreglass and bonded to the dome, so when you look inside the open periscope all you will see is a little chamber slightly larger than the extended periscope, and the rest of the working will be hidden away, mainly for neatness.
This is a short film of the naked periscope going up and down to show how it turns and stops on its own all from one push of a button. With this one now done, and the up and down mechanism working ok, I will start on the lightsaber slot.
This is another short film, showing the periscope mounted in the dome, so you can see it extend up and face forwards.
Please be patient as there are two short films of about 2mb each to load, so pending your connection speed to how long it takes.:)