This part goes with the dome, and while the R2 and R6 have different shaped domes, this bit seems to fit the later R6 just fine. So with plans in hand I set about making it.
I came across two set of plans, one with a flange on the side and the other without but with a wider edge. Both had the same dimensions, so opted to do one with the wider edge as I guess most people stick them on, the bit of extra widht would give more to glue to.
To make this I decided on doing it the model kit way instead of machining it, as it wasn’t that complex to make. Using one set of plans as a base I drew out all the dimensions onto paper and made little templates then stuck them to styrene sheet and cut them out.
I started with the bezel of the surround as the walls were slightly angles and when that matched up to the scale plans, I glue it together then cut some thin strips for the sides and stuck them on. If scale drawings are not available I do prefer to do some to scale as this means when working on something you have a full size drawing you can actually lay the made part over the check its right. When the sides were done, I added an outer surface to it and cleaned it up.
Next I set about making the wider back section, but this would be made more of a tray or lip to start with so the bezel bit could be glued into place later. I cut out a base to match the scale drawing, and then stuck on the sides. To make sure things are straight when sticking things like sides on, I always use a metal square laid on my sheet of glass I work off so I know the base is sitting flat and also the side is proper vertical.
When the sides are stuck on and dry a bit of filler is added all round then sanded off when dry to make sure any marks or gaps in the joins are smoothed over.
Finally the two part side by side ready to be glued together.
With both sections finished, the two were stuck together making sure the inner one sat central to the outer one. Once the glue was set, resin was poured in via a syringe to fill the gap. Its easier to do this than use a more solid filler as any small gaps are filled as the resin rounds round. When the resin had asset a knife was used to cut off any that had oozed out, then a bit of model filler was applied to the surface to fill and scratches.
One I was happy with the finish, it was given a final clean up, prior to being moulded.
So with all the hard work done, a mould is made and a copy cast. Providing you put enough effort into the master copy, each pull should be virtually clean up free. If you make a sloppy master copy, then you will spend far longer in the long run cleaning up the casts.
Finally coat of flat aluminium effect paint just finishes the off nicely.
I was never planning to fit this to my R6 as I thought it was R2 only, but looking at the back of my R6's head it was looking kind of empty so thought I would add one. As I only needed to one and i was quite busy with other work, I bought one to save time, then in-between it arriving and me getting round to loosing it, it got lost. So not wanting to wait for another one to arrive and having a bit of spare time on my hands I decided to make one.
It was made just the same as the front logic surrounds, using the plans and making a outer frame from styrene. Once I had the basic outer shape and inner shape, the two were glued to a flat bit of styrene, then filler and resin added to build it up to shape. Once finished a mould was made and one was cast. now just have to fix it into my dome.